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Review of Trango B52 Belay and Rappel Device

Trango's B52 — One of the Best Belay Devices Available

About.com Rating five out of Five

By Stewart Green, About.com

Rob uses a Trango B52, one of the best and most versatile belay devices, at the Garden of the Gods.

Photograph © Stewart M. Green

The Bottom Line

The Trango B52 is an excellent all-around belay and rappel device. It not only has a sleek aesthetic design but also offers superb handling when climbing.

Description

  • Versatile belay and rappel device for all climbing.
  • Weight: 71 grams
  • Colors: Blue
  • Price: $24.95
  • For more information: Trango

B52 Pros and Cons

Pros

  • Versatile full-function belay device
  • Light weight and very compact
  • Easy to load rope through the long wide slots
  • Easy to feed rope to leader since it rarely hangs up, jams, or binds in the device
  • Offers very smooth rope feed when belaying, lowering, and rappelling
  • Rope friendly with thick sidewalls and smooth edges
  • Easy to use as an auto-block belay device, making it ideal for guiding
  • Easy to start rappels, offers good control on rappels, and dissipates heat generated by rappelling
  • Great for lightweight climbers to rappel and belay since the rope runs so easily
  • Machined from heavy duty aluminum so it lasts longer than other devices
  • Carrying cable is rigid and housed in stout nylon so it doesn’t abrade quickly or bend
  • Ideal for all kinds of climbing, especially multi-pitch routes, sport climbs, lowering, and rappelling

    Cons

    • Rope runs quickly through device if it’s a single thin cord
    • Use caution when lowering a heavier climber
    • Not good for rappelling with single 9mm or thinner rope
    • Can be used as an emergency ascender but is difficult on steep terrain because of its smooth running


The B52 is Long Lasting and Wears Well

When you’re out climbing, your belay device is one of your most important pieces of equipment. If you use something funky, you’re gonna pay all day. Your rope will jam in your device just when the leader is at the crux; you’ll get kinks in the rope when you lower; your double rappel ropes will be difficult to load at a tiny cramped belay stance; and when you do rappel, you have to jerk and feed the rope through the BD for the first 50 feet. But with the Trango B52, all those problems are a thing of the past.

I got a B52 last October and, except for a few times when I lent it to someone else at the crag (“Hey, Stew! Cool belay device. Mind if I try it?”), I’ve used it exclusively. I’ve climbed, belayed, and rappelled almost 500 pitches with it and the B52 is still going strong. It’s scratched on the side walls but I can still read the logo. Both ends of the two slots are worn smooth but plenty of aluminium remains, which avoids the big problem with the competing Petzl Reverso—dangerous sharpening at the slot ends. The beefy carrying cable is still rigid and the nylon sheath is worn through in only four spots. The B52, like the Energizer Bunny, keeps on going and going. It’s lasted longer and better than any other tube belay device I have ever owned.

Rarely Jams and is Great for Lowering and Rappelling

The B52 excels at the crag. When I belay, the rope feeds out smoothly and almost never jams or binds in the device. My leaders love that since they never have to complain or yell “Rope” when they make a dicey clip. And if they fall, the catch is easy. The rope locks right into the B52 so my hands don’t risk rope burn yet there is just enough give that the catch is soft.

I find the B52 is ideal when I lower a leader off a sport route or do a couple long rappels off a desert tower. When I lower the leader, the rope runs nice and easy through the device, not jerky, and the lower is smooth and comfortable. I did find that if the belayer, usually a woman, is lighter than the climber being lowered, then she had to do a slow lower with thinner diameter ropes like a 9mm. In that case, it’s best to use a fatter rope. Rappelling, though, is where the B52 really earns its keep, especially if you don’t weigh much. From the time I leave the anchors, the rappel ropes run smoothly through the B52 and it’s easy to keep in control, even on overhanging terrain. The only problem is that the rope runs fast through the device when I rappel on a single thin cord. Best to use caution and keep the rope around your butt to have plenty of friction.

Based on my extended use of Trango’s B52 belay device, I highly recommend it.

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